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Personal Finance > Ask the Expert
Car buying made easy
June 11, 1997: 3:32 p.m. ET

Expert answers your questions on buying, selling or leasing a car
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NEW YORK (CNNfn) - As the summer months heat up, so does the car buying season, raising questions about how to get the best deal and avoid hassles and headaches.

Now, Jerry Edgerton, author of "Car Shopping Made Easy" and a senior writer and car specialist for Money magazine, answers CNNfn readers' questions about how to cut the best deal on their automotive needs.

1. When is it better to lease than buy a car?

If you:

  • like to trade cars every four years or less;
  • drive less than 15,000 miles a year;
  • take good care of cars (to avoid penalties at the end of the lease)

then you are a good candidate for leasing. And of course, the monthly payments are lower with leasing.

If you:

  • plan to keep your car for six years or more;
  • have enough money for a 10 percent or so down payment;
  • like the idea of eventually finishing monthly payments and still owning the car

then you are a likely car buyer.

2. Should I trade in my car when I purchase another car, or should I sell the car myself and use the cash towards the new purchase?

If you can put up with the hassle, it is much better to sell the car yourself. If your car is in good condition, you ought to get 15 percent to 20 percent more by selling it yourself than by trading it in.

3. What are the best web sites for buying new or late-model cars?

There are many auto sites, but I think two of the best are www.intellichoice.com and www.edmunds.com.

4. How would you negotiate buying a used car? I cannot seem to get the dealers to negotiate on price. It's either their price or the road.

If you are going to used-car superstores such as Auto Nation or CarMax, it is true that they will not negotiate. They have a strict "no-dicker" policy. But most conventional dealers will negotiate, at least somewhat. Before you go in, be sure to know the average retail value of the car you plan to look at (See web sites above, or find the "Edmund's Used Car Guide" on newsstands).

5. I plan on purchasing a new sport-utility vehicle (SUV), probably within the next two months. Is there a best time of year to purchase a new vehicle? Where can I find reports on the SUVs and how the vehicles compare with each other?

Buy before the first snow falls -- dealers may negotiate harder after that, as demand for four-wheel-drive vehicles will go up. For reviews, check the library or Internet for back issues of Car and Driver or Road & Track magazine.

6. If I intend to buy almost anything other than an automobile or insurance, I can easily and quickly compare advertisements. Is there any way I can do the same for cars and be sure I am getting the best price?

For cars, see the Internet sites above. For insurance, unfortunately, you need to call several different companies/agents and get quotes.

7. Where can I obtain safety information on the 1997 vehicles?

The April issue of Consumer Reports magazine covers this. You can find it in your local library. or call Consumer Reports at 800-234-1645.

8. We constantly hear about 'dealer invoice,' i.e., cars sold for '$100 over dealer invoice,' 'at dealer invoice,' '$50 below dealer invoice,' etc. Doesn't the invoice have a built-in profit for the dealer? How should consumers use this invoice price?

Use the invoice, or "dealer cost," as your bidding yardstick. How much to bid over the invoice price will depend on whether the car you want is in high or low demand.

You are correct in noting that the dealer-invoice price does not cover the whole situation. There is another 2 to 3 percent in a so-called "holdback" that the dealer has coming.

However, except in extreme situations where a car is in vast oversupply, you cannot generally negotiate for the holdback. In most cases, just ignore it.

9. Our family vehicles usually last us from seven to 10 years. We drive 10,000 to 13,000 miles annually. Will I be better off financially to lease every two to three years, or purchasing a new vehicle once every seven to 10 years?

You are a clear choice to buy and hold. Financially, that the best possible deal.

10. I drive about 15,000 miles each year --sometime a little more. Should I lease or buy a car? A down payment is no problem. I don't like to keep a car more than three years. They seem to depreciate faster than any other purchase I make.

Leasing sounds likely if you can negotiate a deal with enough mileage per year that you do not wind up paying mileage penalties.

11. What do you suggest for a good type of used car (say 2 or 3 years old) that will hold its value fairly well?

Vans and sport-utility vehicles have held their values very well. This means they are more expensive to buy, but probably will continue to hold value better than other vehicles.

12. I am planning to buy a new car, but have too little time to shop around for the best deal. What do you suggest is the easiest/cheapest deal that I can strike:

  • Internet auto buyer-clubs/services;
  • Price/Costco-type of deals;
  • bargaining directly with a dealer?

Don't try to bargain with the dealers if you don't have the time for research and shopping. Instead, Costco or Auto-by-Tel will give you a reasonable deal.

13. I am a recent college graduate entering the business field. What would you recommend as the best starter car?

A good combination is a Honda Civic -- good gas mileage, very reliable and less than $12,000 for a low-end model.

14. I am in the market for a new minivan. Is there a particular day of the month that is the best for getting a good deal? Does Chrysler have the best value for the minivan dollar?

In my opinion, Chrysler vans are the best value. But check out the rebates on Ford Windstar. As for timing, late in the month is in some cases a good time to buy, but this is not a sure thing.Back to top






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