(FORTUNE Magazine) – In fast-food and casual dining spots around the country, belts are being loosened as consumers ingest heftier portions of their favorite burgers, steaks, and fried delights. Where have all the cauliflower eaters gone? ''The healthy food trend was the biggest snow job ever pulled on American companies,'' chirps an executive for a major fast-food company. Consumers are talking, and eating, out of both sides of their mouths. In focus groups they say they want healthier food. But once through the golden arches, the taste buds often take over. McDonald's reduced-fat (read reduced- flavor) burger, McLean Deluxe, accounts for less than 2% of sales, analysts estimate. Fast-growing Outback Steakhouse is the latest shrine to red meat. By serving huge steaks and enormous batter-fried whole onions (a house specialty), | Outback's sales have grown 86% this year, to $425 million through September.