(FORTUNE Magazine) – Doughnuts have gone upscale. Don't worry, good old-fashioned varieties are still readily available at Dunkin' Donuts or Krispy Kreme. And the hosts at Lou Mitchell's in Chicago still serve the best doughnut holes on the planet, while beignets continue their reign at Cafe Du Monde in New Orleans. But now you can get Drunken Donuts (get it?) at Maloney & Porcelli, a new Manhattan steak house (not yet rated by Zagat), where the fritters are served with three kinds of liqueur-infused jam; at the French Laundry in Napa Valley, a dessert of doughnuts comes with "coffee"--a cup of rich frozen cappuccino pudding. All of the above are tasty and truly decadent. Just the way doughnuts should be.

--Ronald B. Lieber