(FORTUNE Magazine) – Steak is back, and restaurateurs are opening new steak houses everywhere. But you're better off in the hands of a more seasoned practitioner, someone who isn't serving steaks as a sideline to their cigar bar. The crusty waiters at the places below should take good care of you.

--Ronald B. Lieber

Food Decor Service Cost ATLANTA Bone's Restaurant 26 23 25 $40 3130 Piedmont Rd. N.E. 404-237-2663

CHICAGO Gibsons Bar and Steakhouse 24 19 22 $40 1028 N. Rush St. 312-266-8999

DALLAS Lawry's The Prime Rib 25 24 25 $29 3008 Maple Ave. 214-521-7777

HOUSTON Lynn's Steakhouse 25 21 24 $34 955 Dairy-Ashford Rd. 281-870-0807

KANSAS CITY Golden Ox 23 17 20 $16 1600 Genesee St. 816-842-2886

NEW YORK CITY Sparks Steak House 25 19 21 $54 210 E. 46th St. 212-687-4855

0-9 poor to fair 10-19 good to very good 20-25 very good to excellent 26-30 extraordinary to perfection

Cost reflects the estimated price of a dinner with one drink and tip.

ZAGAT SURVEY