(FORTUNE Magazine) – The liquor industry has revived a drink that's even more retro than the martini: potato vodka. Lots of vodka used to be made from fermented potatoes, but over time cheaper mixed grains replaced the spuds. So after watching enviously as $15 cigars get snapped up by the fistful, a few distillers have reincarnated potato vodkas as a "superpremium" luxury item. Yes, this is a gimmick, but who cares? Potato vodkas really are smoother than virtually all of their grain-based counterparts, and they go down without that "afterburn" sensation at the base of your throat. Here are the results of a recent taste test of three widely available potato vodkas, conducted by members of the FORTUNE staff.

Teton Glacier: This American brand--made from genuine Idaho potatoes--is rich and smooth, with a faint herbal note and a warm, pleasant sensation that lingers long after the last sip. A good value at $19 for a fifth. The best choice overall.

Chopin: Our staff was impressed by the elegant bottle and what was inside it. This clean, refreshing Polish vodka tasted the best of the three, but at $30 a fifth, you're better off sticking with the Teton.

Luksusowa: This Polish import doesn't have the subtlety of Teton or Chopin (frankly, it has a bit of that familiar vodka burn), but it only costs $14 a fifth and still tastes better than many grain-based brands.

--Ed Brown