(FORTUNE Magazine) – In summer, cold food is key. Vietnamese cuisine is particularly bracing, with chilis and lemongrass livening up chilled chicken salads and summer rolls. If the air conditioning is on too high, don't miss the pho, an all-purpose term for a variety of noodle soups that you'll find in almost every Vietnamese joint.

--Ronald B. Lieber Food Decor Service Cost CHICAGO Pasteur 20 8 16 $16 5525 N. Broadway 773-878-1061

DALLAS East Wind 22 19 19 $19 2711 Elm St. 214-745-5554

DENVER New Saigon 25 15 20 $15 630 S. Federal Blvd. 303-936-4954

HOUSTON Mai's Restaurant 22 11 14 $11 3403 Milam 713-520-7684

MINNEAPOLIS/ST. PAUL Que Viet 20 11 15 $10 Several locations

WASHINGTON, D.C. Saigon Gourmet 22 16 21 $19 2635 Connecticut Ave. 202-265-1360

0-9 poor to fair 10-19 good to very good 20-25 very good to excellent 26-30 extraordinary to perfection

Cost reflects the estimated price of a dinner with one drink and tip.

ZAGAT SURVEY