(FORTUNE Magazine) – As summer ends and the local clam shack shutters for the season, there's no more excuse for stuffing yourself with batter-fried fish. At the spots below--rated among the very finest by Zagat Survey--you'll find chefs who not only pick their fish well but also prepare it with panache.

--Ronald B. Lieber

Service Decor Food Cost CHICAGO Nick's Fishmarket 25 22 23 $47 Monroe St. at Dearborn 312-621-0200

LONDON 23 20 22 49[pounds] Wiltons 55 Jermyn St. S.W.1 171-629-9955

LOS ANGELES 25 24 22 $35 Water Grill 544 S. Grand Ave. 213-891-0900

NEW YORK CITY 28 27 27 $69 Le Bernardin 155 W. 51 St. 212-489-1515

SAN FRANCISCO 26 25 22 $47 Aqua 252 California St. 415-956-9662

SEATTLE 24 24 22 $30 Ponti Seafood Grill 3014 Third Ave. N. 206-284-3000

0-9 poor to fair 10-19 good to very good 20-25 very good to excellent 26-30 extraordinary to perfection

Cost reflects the estimated price of a dinner with one drink and tip.

ZAGAT SURVEY