(FORTUNE Magazine) – Want an elegant alternative to desserts? Cheese courses aren't just for French restaurants anymore. The spots below slice up much-improved American offerings like local chevre and blue cheese as well as more exotic fromages from France and elsewhere. --Ronald B. Lieber

Food Decor Service Cost ATLANTA Bacchanalia 28 24 25 $42 3125 Piedmont Rd. 404-365-0410

CAMBRIDGE, MASS. The Blue Room 23 20 20 $29 1 Kendall Sq. 617-494-9034

CHICAGO Zinfandel 21 20 20 $31 59 W. Grand Ave. 312-527-1818

LONDON Aubergine 27 22 23 48 [English 11 Park Walk, SW10 171-352-3449 pounds]

NEW YORK Picholine 24 21 22 $52 35 W. 64th St. 212-724-8585

SANTA MONICA, CAL. Valentino 27 24 25 $47 3115 Pico Blvd. 310-829-4313

WASHINGTON Obelisk 27 21 25 $46 2029 P St. 202-872-1180

ZAGAT SURVEY

0-9 poor to fair 10-19 good to very good 20-25 very good to excellent 26-30 extraordinary to perfection

Cost reflects the estimated price of a dinner with one drink and tip.