(FORTUNE Magazine) – If you happen to be a fan of the fireplace, you'll be pleased to learn that one of the latest restaurant trends is the wood-fired oven, in which log-fed flames flavor everything from pizzas to pan roasts. These ovens, often the centerpiece of the room, infuse both the food and the ambiance with an autumnal smokiness.

--Ronald B. Lieber

Food Decor Service Cost

CHICAGO Wildfire 19 21 19 $28 159 W. Erie St. 312-787-9000

LONDON River Cafe 25 20 20 [pound]43 Thames Wharf Studios, Rainville Rd., W6 171-381-8824

MINNEAPOLIS Palomino 24 25 23 $24 825 Hennepin Ave. 612-339-3800

NEW YORK CITY Follonico 22 20 20 $43 6 W. 24th St. 212-691-6359

SAN FRANCISCO Rose Pistola 21 22 18 $29 532 Columbus Ave. 415-399-0499

WASHINGTON, D.C. Coppi's 22 19 18 $18 1414 U St. NW 202-319-7773

0-9 poor to fair 10-19 good to very good 20-25 very good to excellent 26-30 extraordinary to perfection

Cost reflects the estimated price of a dinner with one drink and tip. ZAGAT SURVEY