(FORTUNE Magazine) – Chinese restaurants are now found all over North America. Once- exotic Chinatowns, though, still offer the most enticing array. And since they tend to be near downtowns, they're convenient for business travelers. --Ronald B. Lieber

Food Decor Service Cost

BOSTON Chau Chow 23 7 15 $15 52 Beach St. 617-426-6266

CHICAGO Emperor's Choice 23 13 18 $21 2238 S. Wentworth Ave. 312-225-8800

LOS ANGELES Empress Pavilion 24 16 16 $19 988 N. Hill St. 213-617-9898

NEW YORK CITY Joe's Shanghai 23 8 14 $20 9 Pell St. 212-233-8888

TORONTO Lee Garden Restaurant 24 6 17 $20 331 Spadina Ave. 416-593-9524

WASHINGTON, D.C. Hunan Chinatown 20 15 18 $19 624 H St. N.W. 202-783-5858

0-9 poor to fair 10-19 good to very good 20-25 very good to excellent 26-30 extraordinary to perfection

Cost reflects the estimated price of a dinner with one drink and tip.

ZAGAT SURVEY