(FORTUNE Magazine) – Market reforms may be causing indigestion in Tokyo--but there's no need to go hungry closer to home. Sushi, soba noodles, or yakitori (meat and poultry marinated and grilled on skewers) from any of these eateries will appeal to the "salaryman" in all of us.

--Michael H. Martin

Food Decor Service Cost BOSTON Ginza 26 18 19 $26 16 Hudson St. 617-338-2261

CHICAGO Kuni's 23 18 19 $25 511 Main St. 847-328-2004

LOS ANGELES Katsu 26 20 22 $35 1972 N. Hillhurst Ave. 213-665-1891

NEW YORK Sushisay 26 18 21 $49 38 E. 51st St. 212-755-1780

SAN FRANCISCO Kabuto Sushi 24 11 17 $32 5116 Geary Blvd. 415-752-5652

SEATTLE Shiro's 27 17 22 $29 2401 Second Ave. 206-443-9844

WASHINGTON D.C. Makoto 28 25 27 $42 4822 MacArthur Blvd., N.W. 202-298-6866

0-9 poor to fair 10-19 good to very good 20-25 very good to excellent 26-30 extraordinary to perfection

Cost reflects the estimated price of a dinner with one drink and tip.

ZAGAT SURVEY