(FORTUNE Magazine) – What's Wall Street's best martini bar? A lot of Street types pick the FiftySeven Bar at the Four Seasons hotel. If by "best" they mean pretentious, then they've got it right. FORTUNE's outing there starts inauspiciously when a bouncer tells us to wait behind a velvet rope. Maybe it's Nelson's grubby polo shirt, Andy's bulging gym bag (which doesn't bear an investment bank logo), or my overstuffed, unhip backpack. When we are finally seated, we're shocked. Not by our surroundings--chatter about the Dow, the Hamptons, and even a vivid sexual exploit. But by the prices. The martini menu, which features 16 flavors--including some that would horrify a purist, like the Diva Martini (Finlandia vodka, Malibu rum, Frangelico, and cranberry and pineapple juices)--also features exorbitant prices: $14 to $15 per drink. The martinis are okay, but you pay for presentation. Our unsmiling waitress carries our drinks in silver shakers with extra dishes of olives on little lacquered trays. A word of caution: The Sapphire martini sounds elegant but looks unsettlingly like Windex. And beware of the food. We ordered "caviar in salt-baked mini-potatoes, clabber cream" for $17. Translation: It's a baked potato with a dollop of sour cream, sprinkled with a few eggs. Wendy's does it better.

--Bethany McLean