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Who's Frenchest?
By Erik Torkells

(FORTUNE Magazine) – Only the famous can make peak-hour reservations at Pastis, New York City's hot new bistro. Pass! There are too many authentically French restaurants to spend an eternite at the bar. We asked those who know best--expatriate executives--which places most remind them of home.

Yves Coleon, president, Lalique: "Park Bistro [414 Park Avenue South; 212-689-1360] has typical bistro fare--which reminds me of growing up in Paris--and New York's best french fries. You have to know the waiter. They won't necessarily serve them to everyone. La Goulue [746 Madison Avenue, 212-988-8169] feels like a Left Bank brasserie. It has a great salade nicoise--really wonderful."

Ariane Daguin, co-owner, D'Artagnan, purveyors of game and foie gras: "One is Chez Jacqueline [72 Macdougal Street; 212-505-0727] because all the French people at the bar are more or less the same people coming every night to have a drink. It's like that place on television where everyone knows everybody."

Frederic Fekkai, celebrity hairstylist: "I'm from Aix-en-Provence. The gentleman who owns Provence [38 Macdougal Street; 212-475-7500] is from a town 15 minutes away. The waiters are French--some don't even speak English well--and the food is very, very Provencal. I love the pissaladiere, a tart with tomato and onion. It's fantastique. But the reason to go is the creme brulee."

Bernard Ganter, director of trade relations, Moet & Chandon and Dom Perignon: "Les Halles [411 Park Avenue South; 212-679-4111] is quite informal and relaxed, which is how bistros are in Paris, and it is open late. A great hanger steak and some fries, or potato and turnip puree. The food doesn't come with silver and gold plates. But it tastes good, looks good, smells good."

Laurent Mommeja-Hermes, CEO and president, Hermes U.S.: "For a brasserie, I would say Balthazar [80 Spring Street, 212-965-1414]. It is both very Paris and very New York. I would order meat. Steak frites."

Jean Marc Gallot, president, Cristofle U.S.: "Park Bistro is like a bistro in Paris, so I like this place. And they use Cristofle flatware! The service? Sometimes they are in a good mood, and sometimes they are very...frank. They are not going to tell you everything is great on today's menu. I think about a place on the Upper East Side, Demarchelier [50 East 86th Street; 212-249-6300]. You are allowed to smoke."

--ERIK TORKELLS