(FORTUNE Magazine) – One hour: Traffic is miserable, so forget about getting a cab. If you're in a hotel near Avenida Paulista, the business district, walk to Museum of Art of Sao Paulo (1578 Avenida Paulista, 55-11-251-5644), one of Brazil's best. Stop for ice cream at Gelateria Parmalat (518 Rua Oscar Freire, 55-11-852-9533).

Three hours: Taxi downtown to the Pinacoteca do Estado (2 Praca da Luz, 55-11-229-9844), an early-19th-century building with a spectacular painting collection. Explore Praca Julio Prestes, a train station that's the site of a new classical-music hall. Have lunch in Bexiga, a bohemian neighborhood (about a five-minute ride from the Pinacoteca) with Italian restaurants and steakhouses.

Six hours: From outside, Grandes Galerias (439 Avenida Sao Joao) looks like another of the city's many decaying buildings. But the spiral-like interior holds more than 140 used-record stores, attracting 100,000 buyers each weekend. You can find anything from rare '60s bossa nova to recent hip-hop. Baratos Afins (No. 316, 55-11-223-3629) specializes in '60s Brazilian psychedelic music, a worldwide cult item. Jazz aficionados should take a cab to Marche (634 Rua Mateus Grou, Pinheiros, 55-11-815-4353) for the huge selection of old vinyl.

Night: For Brazilian soul food, go to Dona Lucinha (2325 Rua Bela Cintra, Cerqueira Cesar, 55-11-282-3797). Then make like a "Paulista" and go clubbing. U-Turn (1463 Rua Tabapua, Chacara Itaim, 55-11-820-0311), Love Club & Lounge (189 Rua Pequetita, Vila Olimpia, 55-11-3044-1613), and Brancaleone (298 Rua Luis Murat, Vila Madalena, 55-11-870-8873) are always hopping.

An entire day: Embu, a small town 15 miles southwest of Sao Paulo, is known for its antiques shops and weekend art fair (on a sour note, it was also the hiding place for Nazi Josef Mengele). Stay at Hotel Rancho Silvestre (700 Estrada do Votorantim, 55-11-7961-1911; doubles from $120), a mile from the art district, in a breathtaking valley. It has tennis courts, bowling alleys, swimming pools, and soccer fields--this, after all, is where the Brazilian national soccer team relaxes before competitions.

--ANDRE BARCINSKI