(FORTUNE Magazine) – When it comes to power lunch, you are not what you eat. You are where you eat. Local restaurant critics give us the lowdown:

atlanta THELMA'S KITCHEN, 768 Marietta Street N.W., 404-688-5855. "It's kinda scuzzy, but I love it. They serve fried chicken, butter beans, and tea so sweet it'll make your teeth fall out. People from CNN and Coke go there. In fact, last time I was there I saw Ted Turner." --John Kessler, Atlanta Journal Constitution. Hot Tip: It's the side dishes that make this "meat-and-two" special.

chicago SPIAGGIA, 980 N. Michigan Avenue, 312-280-2750. "For an expensive restaurant, Spiaggia has a great $25 prix fixe lunch. The food isn't gussied up. It's just perfect, simple Italian. The name is Italian for "beach," and there are three-story windows that look directly over Lake Michigan." --Phil Vettel, Chicago Tribune. Hot Tip: Check out some of the witty wine descriptions.

dallas AL BIERNAT'S RESTAURANT, 4217 Oaklawn Avenue, 214-219-2201. "Al managed the Dallas Palm for more than 20 years. Everybody knows and loves him. His is a place to see and be seen--or not. It depends on what you're doing. The steaks and lobsters are huge and great." --Dotty Griffith, Dallas Morning News. Hot Tip: Call ahead and introduce yourself. Al will treat you like an old friend.

los angeles THE GRILL, 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310-276-0615. "The white-jacketed waiters are the most professional in town; they're not just out-of-work actors. All the big agents eat there because it's not far from the CAA offices. A model American chophouse, it's not where you go for diet food." --S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times. Hot Tip: Stick with the classics--Cobb salad, steak tartare, a burger.

miami JOE'S STONE CRAB RESTAURANT, 11 Washington Avenue, 305-673-0365. "The crabs come precracked, so you don't have to wear a bib, and you can eat it all with a fork. They're expensive this season, so lunch can cost $65 a person. But that doesn't stop the local politicians from flocking there." --Kendall Hamersly, Miami Herald. Hot Tip: no reservations. Arrive early and tip the maitre d' well.

new york 11 Madison Park, 11 Madison Avenue, 212-889-0905. "You could say the Four Seasons, but the scene in New York has become much more diluted since the '80s. All of Danny Meyer's restaurants offer speed and informality: a winning formula for the nouveau power lunch." --William Grimes, New York Times. Hot Tip: Reserve way ahead.

san francisco BUCK'S RESTAURANT, 3062 Woodside Road, Woodside, 650-851-8010. "It's diner-like and filled with cyberfolks. As one regular says, 'You never know who you're going to see or what connections you're going to make.' A ton of Internet companies have been started on paper napkins there." --Michael Bauer, San Francisco Chronicle. Hot Tip: It's even better at breakfast.

seattle DANIEL'S BROILER, 809 Fairview Place North, 206-621-8262. "You really get to meet your meat there: All their USDA prime, corn-fed beef is on display. Plus it's on Lake Union and has stunning views: fishing boats and pleasure crafts, the skyline and the Space Needle." --Nancy Leson, Seattle Times. Hot Tip: Ask for a quiet, cushy back booth.

washington, d.c. THE BREAD LINE, 1751 Pennsylvania Avenue N.W., 202-822-8900. "This is one of the rare places where you see recognizable faces--reporters and staff who want to escape the White House. It's cafeteria-line service, so it's fast, but they serve great food." --Phyllis Richman, Washington Post. Hot Tip: Go before noon or they might run out of your favorites.

--MALIA BOYD