(FORTUNE Magazine) – An hour: The kitsch is back. Emerging from bankruptcy, the bazillion-dollar Harrah's Casino (4 Canal Street; 504-533-6000) has reopened in a new location. Follow up your roll of the dice with a Sazerac at the Top of the Mart (World Trade Center, 2 Canal Street, 33rd floor; 504-522-9795), the red-velvet revolving temple of cheese that delivers stupefying 360-degree views of the city.

An afternoon: If it's not sauna-hot, hop the St. Charles Avenue streetcar to Audubon Park for a quick 18 at the public course (Audubon Golf Course, 473 Walnut Street; 504-865-8260). On your way back downtown, wet your whistle on the veranda of the Columns Hotel (3811 St. Charles Avenue; 504-899-9308), the landmark where 12-year-old Brooke Shields displayed her wares in Pretty Baby. Too conventional? Then have a muffuletta sandwich at the ancient Napoleon House (500 Chartres Street; 504-524-9752) and a tour of all things freaky--including famous St. Louis Cemetery No. 1--at the New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum (724 Dumaine Street; 504-523-7685).

An evening: Make it a Marigny night. The Faubourg Marigny is the hipster alternative 'hood just downriver from the Quarter. Start with dinner and too much good wine at the Marigny's best-kept secret, Marisol (437 Esplanade Avenue; 504-943-1912). Next, pop in for a set at the Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro (626 Frenchmen Street; 504-949-0696), followed quickly by boundless boogying at Cafe Brasil (2100 Chartres Street; 504-949-0851). If those dancing shoes still won't come off, then shimmy over to the outskirts of the Quarter where, at Donna's Bar and Grill (800 N. Rampart Street; 504-596-6914) and the Funky Butt (714 N. Rampart Street; 504-558-0872), you'll find more throwin' down than you ever thought possible.

An entire day: Across Lake Pontchartrain lies Northshore, the pastoral alternative to New Orleans' urban beat. The best gator gawking is on Dr. Wagner's Honey Island Swamp Tour (in Slidell; 504-242-5877). You can actually believe Wagner's tales; he's the only operator in town with a doctorate in marine biology. Later, stroll through Covington, known for its good shopping. Worth a look: the majolica pottery at Hasslock Studios (334 N. Vermont Street; 888-427-7562)--they also teach classes--and the all-around eclecticism of H.J. Smith & Sons General Merchants (308 N. Columbia Street; 504-892-0460). Cap it all off with dinner in the 19th-century Creole mansion-cum-restaurant Artesia (21516 Highway 36, Abita Springs; 504-892-1662). Chef John Besh's crab-and-crawfish beignets will leave you wishing your belt had another notch.

--MALIA BOYD