(FORTUNE Magazine) – The Vegas Strip has come to resemble a dockyard of gaudy cruise ships: You leave one oversized hotel/ship only to find yourself at another with a different theme. The 3,005-room Bellagio is no different, except that instead of replicating Paris or Venice, Steve Wynn fixated on '80s luxe. Gucci! Le Cirque! Chanel! It sparkles like cubic zirconium.

That said, the decent-sized rooms are a model of beige restraint, a breath of fresh air in a town of recirculated color and noise. I spent as much time in my room as possible and grew quite comfortable there. So much so that I skipped the art collection (Van Gogh, Picasso) and Cirque du Soleil (okay, it was sold out).

Next time I go to Vegas, I'll stay in L.A. Kidding! I'll probably stay at Bellagio again. The new Four Seasons is nicer, but it's way at the end of the Strip. Even though I don't love Vegas, I want to know it's there in case I change my mind.

--ERIK TORKELLS

BELLAGIO 3600 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 888-987-6667 or 702-693-7444; doubles from $159.