(FORTUNE Magazine) – An Hour: Old meets new at the Irish Museum of Modern Art (Royal Hospital, Military Road, Kilmainham, 353-1-612-9900). On a sylvan hill, the former Royal Hospital, built in 1684 and modeled after Les Invalides in Paris, has an expansive, tree-lined entrance and leafy gardens. (The art is pretty cool too.) Meanwhile, new meets old at Chief O'Neill's (Smithfield Village, 353-1-817-3838), a Philippe Starck-inspired hotel that cannibalized some of the old Jameson distillery. Part of the complex, Ceol, the Traditional Irish Music Centre (353-1-817-3820), projects, plays, and displays all the facets of "trad" in an interactive museum. Leave time for Ceol, Music of the People, an 18-minute panoramic video that makes you feel as if you've toured the island.

An Afternoon: Go north! Though considered a part of Dublin, Howth (pronounced hoeth), a fishing village ten miles north of City Centre, is as scenic as any town in rural Ireland. You can cab it for 20 bucks, but the easiest way to get there is the DART train (it's the last stop). In the lovely harbor, sea lions beg for handouts from photogenic fishing boats. Have lunch at the Abbey Tavern (Abbey Street; 353-1-839-0307), an airy stone pub, part of the old Abbey, with seven open fireplaces that are used year round. The best view of Dublin Bay and the outer islands can be had on the Howth cliff walk, accessed by walking along Balscadden road.

An Evening: It doesn't have the reputation of Broadway or the West End, but Dublin theater is world-class--and at a fraction of the cost. Check the listings in The Irish Times or The Evening Herald. After the show, dine at Il Posto (10 St. Stephen's Green, 353-1-679-4769), an Italian hideaway where models and celebs consort. A shot of Limoncello awaits those who are extra nice to the maitre d'. From there, stroll down Grafton Street and into the Temple Bar neighborhood (making pub stops at will). For a nightcap, try Renards (35-37 South Frederick Street, 353-1-677-5876). It's centrally located--important in a cab-starved town, especially late--and caters to an older crowd. Remember: In Dublin, "older" means around 30.

An Entire Day: Go south! Head about 25 miles down Route N 11 south, exit Kilmacanogue, and follow the signs to Glendalough (353-4-044-5325). The former monastery dates to the sixth century; the cemetery is equal parts spooky and enchanting. Then head back north via N 11 and follow the signs to the Powerscourt Gardens, 1,000 acres of Shangri-la. Proceed north again to Dalkey, a charming coastal village that's home to U2's Bono. Have dinner at P.D.'s Woodhouse (1 Coliemore Road; 353-1-284-9399), a cozy den with an authentic oak brazier. Make reservations.

--LANCE CONTRUCCI