Safari So Good The FORTUNE guide to going on safari in Africa.
By Christine Y. Chen

(FORTUNE Magazine) – Hear the word "safari," and you might have visions of trekking through the bush in the heart of Africa, thousands of miles away from any sign of civilization, exhausted and grimy from several days' accumulation of sweat and dust. It's an option, of course, but just one of many: These days, the variety of expeditions offered in the eastern and southern parts of the continent mean that you can view stunning landscapes and wildlife without having to rough it at all.

Where to Go

The first order of business is to decide where you want to go. Safaris usually take place in or near national parks in two regions of Africa.

SOUTHERN AFRICA: It's no jungle, but vegetation tends to be thicker and more lush than in East Africa. (In Botswana and Zimbabwe, water safaris are also available.) The weather is milder and more consistent year-round in the south, although there's a brief rainy period in January and February. Some tour operators recommend going to South Africa (at right) and Botswana in July and August (winter in the Southern Hemisphere). That's the dry season: The few remaining water sources attract more wildlife, and the spare foliage makes it easier to view animals close up. No visa is required for U.S. citizens going to South Africa, Botswana, or Namibia for up to 90 days. U.S. citizens entering Zimbabwe can purchase a tourist visa at the border for $30.

EAST AFRICA: The main attraction is the great migration of herds of plains animals in the wide, open spaces of Kenya (above) and Tanzania. It occurs twice a year, after the rainy seasons. In the late spring herds of wildebeests, antelopes, and zebras (followed by predators like lions and leopards) leave the Serengeti in Tanzania and arrive in Kenya's Masai Mara National Reserve in late July. After a shorter rainy season in the fall, the animals turn around in late October and return southwest to Tanzania. Visa not required for U.S. citizens visiting Kenya for up to 30 days. U.S. citizens are required to obtain a visa in advance for Tanzania.

Tour Operators

These reputable operators can help you plan a safari based on your budget and time constraints. Most outfitters recommend that you plan a trip of at least one week, spread out over a couple of different areas. (Keep in mind that some safaris don't allow children under 12.)

Abercrombie & Kent, 800-323-7308, abercrombiekent.com

African Travel, 800-444-2874, africantravelinc.com

Big Five Tours & Expeditions, 800-244-3483, bigfive.com

Ker & Downey, 800-423-4236, kerdowney.com

Micato Safaris, 800-642-2861, africansafari.org/micato

Premier Tours, 800-545-1910, premiertours.com

Where to Stay

Reserves in both East and Southern Africa offer tented or lodged safaris, with all meals and amenities provided. In East Africa there are usually between 24 and 50 beds per camp, and safaris use a minibus with an open top. In Southern Africa, lodges tend to be smaller, with eight to 24 beds per camp. Safaris employ an open Land Rover, with no more than ten people per vehicle. Game drives are scheduled at dawn and at dusk, when animals are the most active.

A FEW TOP LODGES

Ulusaba Private Game Reserve, Sabi Sand region, South Africa; 800-557-4255; ulusaba.com

Governors' Camp, Masai Mara, Kenya; 254-2-331-871; governorscamp.com

Londolozi Private Game Reserve, Kruger National Park, South Africa; 27-11-809-4447; londolozi.com

Mala Mala Game Reserve, Kruger National Park, South Africa; 27-11-789-2677; malamala.com

Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, Zimbabwe; 27-31-310-3333; vfsl.com

Singita Private Game Reserve, Kruger National Park, South Africa; 27-11-234-0990; singita.co.za

What to Pack

Do check with your operator on luggage weight restrictions, in case you're taking a Cessna to the camp.

Do pack casual, neutral clothing--khaki is always good.

Do bring T-shirts, shorts, and sandals for hanging out at camp during the day--and a swimsuit, as most lodges have pools.

Do dress in layers: Nights can be chilly (a sweater and light jacket will suffice); cover skin to avoid insect bites.

Do remember sunglasses, hat, binoculars, camera with telephoto lens, and lots of film (at no higher than 200 ASA speed). A flashlight is useful while walking the camp at night.

Don't buy special safari gear that looks like Banana Republic circa 1985. Most likely you have everything you need.

Don't bring your bright-red North Face jacket. Your goal is to blend in.

Don't wear black (it absorbs heat) or white (it reflects sunlight and alarms the animals).

Don't be mistaken for the military--no camouflage!

Don't bother with heavy-duty hiking boots; regular athletic shoes will do just fine.

Don't bother stuffing a giant suitcase--most lodges have laundry service. (But note that cultural traditions in some areas prevent staffers from washing underwear.)

Wanted!

Known collectively as the Big Five, these animals--rhino, leopard, elephant, lion, buffalo--are considered the most dangerous animals in Africa. Both the eastern and southern regions of the continent provide ample opportunity for close viewing.

Medication

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's Website (cdc.gov/travel) is updated regularly with information about outbreaks of disease, as well as required and recommended vaccinations and medication for foreign countries. Tanzania requires all visitors to produce an international certificate proving they've been vaccinated against yellow fever. Yellow fever and cholera vaccinations are also recommended for Kenya. For all African countries, it's a good idea to get hepatitis and typhus shots. And you should take antimalaria medication. The CDC recommends mefloquine, better known by the brand name Lariam, from one week before departure until four weeks after you return. Watch out for side effects: Lariam can cause nausea, dizziness, dehydration, and funky dreams. Pack insect repellent with DEET, an antihistamine for insect bites, Imodium, and a personal first-aid kit.