(FORTUNE Magazine) – "Write to the FDA; contact your Congressman," urges Robert Kaufelt, the owner of Murray's Cheese Shop in New York City. Or at least sign the petition (at oldwayspt.org) started by the Cheese of Choice Coalition.

Luckily, it's still possible to find the endangered species, although, as Kaufelt says, "pickings are scarce, and they're only going to a few places," mostly in New York. Murray's will ship anywhere in the country; high-end restaurants such as Picholine, Gramercy Tavern, Le Bernardin, and the new Artisanal also offer up the gooey goods.

If you live outside New York, your best bet may be booking a ticket to Europe. Since the FDA has eased restrictions on what travelers can bring into the country, you can now stock up on the finest Epoisses, Camemberts, and Livarots. To test for ripeness, a state of perfection that lasts no more than three days, Kaufelt suggests squeezing the cheese; it should have the same consistency as the area between your thumb and forefinger. A final note: In order to spare your fellow passengers the smell, place the cheese in a tin of coffee grounds (it's an old smuggler's trick). And bring along a pair of nose plugs, just in case.

--REBECCA ASCHER-WALSH