CNNMoney.com
Companies Economy International Corrections Pre-market Trading After-hours Trading Winners/Losers/Actives Bonds Currencies Commodities World Markets Money Magazine Real Estate Taxes Jobs Ask the Expert Money 101 Autos Mutual Funds The Help Desk Loan Center Best Places to Live Ask the Expert Ultimate Guide to Retirement Retirement Calculators Best Funds Best Places to Retire Fortune Brainstorm Tech Apple 2.0 Blog Big Tech Blog Sectors and Stocks Tech Talk Resource Guide Small Business Makeovers Questions & Answers Small Business Video 100 Best Places to Launch FSB 100 Fortune Small Business Fortune 500 Brainstorm Tech Investing Management C-Suite Rankings Main Create Portfolio Edit Portfolio Create Alerts Edit Alerts
My Hot-Rod Game Machine
By Peter Lewis

(FORTUNE Magazine) – With all the GameCube/Xbox hype, you might think civilization has reached the zenith of 3-D gaming. But to a fanatic, the consoles can't touch a fire-breathing, tail-kicking, supermodified PC. So, with a $2,000 budget, I assembled the ultimate game box. Putting together a PC from the screws up is not for the faint of heart, but neither is it beyond the grasp of a patient, careful tinkerer.

Building a computer from parts won't necessarily save you money, unless you shop hard for bargains or use second-tier components. (Major PC makers like Compaq and Dell buy their components at discounts.) The fact that it's also a top-end multimedia PC makes it easier to justify the cost.

Microprocessor: Advanced Micro Devices' Athlon Pro 1800+ won my vote not only because it delivers screamingly fast performance with instruction-set enhancements ideal for gaming, but also because it cost just $299, a little more than half the price of Intel's 2,000MHz Pentium 4. Some hard-core gamers are shifting to Pentiums, but bang for buck, AMD still rules.

Case: I picked a WaveSonic FS-710BB ten-bay ATX server tower with integrated 351-watt power supply ($149). This is a huge, heavy, purple-and-black beast with three cooling fans. Air circulation is critical in order to avoid overheating when running high-performance chips and components. While choosing a case, make sure you have a power supply of at least 300 watts and easy access to drive bays and expansion slots.

Motherboard: Make sure your mobo--the main printed circuitboard into which all other major components are plugged--is an ATX board and that it can handle the microprocessor and memory you need. To house my Athlon Pro, I picked an Asus A7M266 with an AMD 761 chipset ($177).

Memory: The Rambus memory popular among fanatics is so expensive that 512 megabytes of it would have blown my budget. I ended up buying a stick of Mushkin 512MB DDR chips with built-in heatsinks, for $129.

Hard drive: My heart was set on an IBM DeskStar, but my local electronics store was having a heck of a sale on a Western Digital 80GB Ultra DMA-100 hard drive, with 7,200rpm spin rate and 8.9-millisecond seek time. It cost me $129 (after rebate), a savings of more than $100 over comparable drives.

Floppy drive: Why not, it's only $20, and I have more expansion bays than I'll ever use. The 3.5-inch Teac is the brand to get.

Optical drive: What I wanted: the new Pioneer DVD-R/RW combo superdrive that reads and writes DVD and CD disks. But even with a recent price cut to $600, it was still too much. What I got: A Hewlett-Packard CD24RI internal EIDE CD-RW drive, which doesn't have DVD support but does a great job of reading and writing audio CDs. It cost $200, and with the money I saved I can buy a great DVD player.

Graphics and sound cards: What transforms a powerful PC into an ultimate game machine? Graphics and sound. For graphics, I broke the bank and spent $350 for the Visiontek Xtasy 6964 GeForce3 Titanium with 64 MB of video memory and a 240MHz core clock. Yes, we bad. Nothing else touches it. The game machine standard for sound is the Creative SoundBlaster Live!, but there's a new, better alternative: the Creative Audigy Platinum with Dolby 5.1 support ($200). I'm a bit nervous about compatibility, but in terms of performance, it's the best for making games come alive.

Speakers: If you can find them, the Klipsch Pro Media 5.1 speakers (four satellites and a subwoofer) will blow you away. So will the $399 price, but there aren't any other desktop speakers that deliver the combination of power and subtlety that Klipsch is known for.

Network card: Because I have a cable modem, I need a network card. D-Link's 10/100 NIC was handy, and it cost $15.

Mouse: Some hard-core gamers are starting to embrace the new optical mice from Microsoft or Logitech, but in my system the only choice is the Karna Razer Boomslang 2000 balled mouse (about $100 if you can find one on eBay). It has 6,000dpi precision and it just looks mean. After a brief hiatus Karna is making them again, so they'll be easier to find.

Mousepad: I'm still looking in kitchen-supply stores for a plastic Everglide cutting board. In the meantime, 3M makes a high-tech mousing pad that's very thin and, unfortunately, very expensive ($15) and fragile.

OS: Windows XP Home Edition ($199). I'm not sure yet that it's compatible with all my favorite gaming peripherals, but I am sure it's the best operating system for my new box.

Monitor: Because the game consoles attach to a television set, I figured I could attach my screaming machine to a 19-inch Sony Trinitron tube monitor I've had for five years. If I were buying the ultimate game display, however, I'd skip the fancy flat panels and get the 24-inch wide-screen Sony Trinitron GDM-FW900 for a mere $2,000. It has four USB ports out front and the best image quality and refresh rate around.

--P.L.