(FORTUNE Magazine) – Does foie gras amount to cruel and unusual punishment? California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger, PETA, acclaimed chef Charlie Trotter, and the states of New York, Illinois, Massachusetts, and Oregon are all on the hunt to ban the delicacy.

Opponents say force-feeding ducks and geese--necessary to produce the enlarged, succulent liver-- is animal cruelty. But Julia Child need not spin in her grave just yet: Demand for American foie gras has surged since regulators began the campaign. Michael Ginor, owner of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, one of only two large U.S. producers, says that since March demand is up 20%. Given the political climate, however, Ginor is reluctant to ramp up production. "There's a guillotine blade hanging over our heads," he says.

Perhaps the increase in demand points to a habit even more ingrained than disdaining Gallic traditions. George Faison, co-owner of foie gras distributor D'Artagnan, observes, "This is uniquely American. When someone says you can't do or eat something, Americans want to do it that much more." -- Julia Boorstin