(FORTUNE Magazine) – The most surprising debut in the just-released--and hotly debated--Michelin Guide New York City 2006? A Manhattan pub called The Spotted Pig earned a coveted one star, putting it on equal footing with posh restaurants like Nobu and Babbo. So what's a pub doing on a nice list like this? This reporter decided to find out. "It'll be at least a half-hour--probably more," said the host, advising my party to squeeze into the crowded bar with a cocktail. But the wait was worth it. English chef and co-owner April Bloomfield (formerly of the River Café and Chez Panisse) changes the menu every meal, but after we sample some of the mainstays--chicken liver toast, a Roquefort cheeseburger, ginger cake--it's clear there's a big difference between your corner bar and this gastro-pub, which pairs the public-house aesthetic with gastronomical feats. Boasting a formidable wine list, an eclectic clientele, and thumping music, The Spotted Pig is a refreshing change of scene for haute cuisine. Now if only they took reservations ...