(FORTUNE Small Business) – The "beautiful people" dressed in black, dining at tony sidewalk bistros? Yo! I thought this was Philly! Visitors to the birthplace of independence are discovering, as did the delegates to this year's national Republican convention, that along with having 300 years of history, architecture, and great museums (with those Rocky photo ops), Philadelphia is hip. From Walnut Street's Restaurant Row to the nightlife along the Delaware River, there's new vigor beyond the Liberty Bell. Yet despite all the glitz, you can still get a soft pretzel with mustard.

--RATHE MILLER

Stay

--Four Seasons Hotel: The best hotel in town. Beg, borrow, or save for a room on the upper floors overlooking the Swann Fountain. Rates from $310. (800-332-3442)

--Thomas Bond House: Go Colonial. This 1769 Georgian home in the historic district has been exquisitely restored as a 12-room B&B. Bargain rates start at $95, but splurge for the $175 suite with a four-poster bed and working fireplace. (800-845-BOND)

--Clarion Suites Convention Center: A bit rough around the edges, but a great deal: suites with kitchens, exposed brick, and original beams (circa 1892) in a former chair factory in Chinatown. Rates from $99. (215-922-1730)

Eat

--Le Bec-Fin: Philly cuisine doesn't get more haute than this. Celebrity chef Georges Perrier's seven-course feast costs $120 une pop; no cheesesteaks. Reservations well in advance. (215-567-1000)

--Fork: Casual and artsy, like its Old City gallery-district surroundings. The fine fare, which changes daily, is fresh new American, with lots of organic produce. Dinner is served at the bar, too. (215-625-9425)

--Bleu: The newest al fresco eatery overlooking the classiest downtown greensward, Rittenhouse Square. Try the chef's special five-spice snapper with teriyaki-lime broth, $25. (215-545-0342)