(MONEY Magazine) – Ever since 1969, when Christian Dior put his moniker on a pair of $45 eyeglass frames, designer eyewear has proliferated, growing from 5% in the mid-'80s to an eye-popping 40% of the $4.6 billion frame market by 1993. But when you pay $200 to $400 to slip on stylish specs by Giorgio Armani or Calvin Klein, are you getting more than name tags? Not really. MONEY interviewed sources at the three largest international frame manufacturers, which produce, among others, Emporio and Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Laurent, Polo/Ralph Lauren, Fendi and Gucci eyewear. We were told, for example, that at the Italy-based Luxottica, which turns out 11 million frames annually, designer and nondesigner frames are made in exactly the same way. "The value to a designer brand is the security of styling," explains Henry Sand at the Luxottica Group in the U.S. "Quality is not the reason the Armani frame is more expensive." Luxottica frames tend to be best because of leading-edge technology. Their house brands, such as Avant ^ Garde, Mirari and Sfero Flex, range from $60 for simple plastic to $160 for metal styles. By contrast, Armani's least expensive plastic model (above) goes for $250, while the metal YSL frames command $375. In addition, manufacturer Marchon/Marcolin's Fantasy, CEO and Accuflex ($80 to $200) and Safilo's Adensco, Maurice St. Michel and Blue Bay ($48 to $175) are worth checking out. Rose-colored lenses are extra.