(MONEY Magazine) – The image of Ford Explorers mangled after their Firestone tires failed is a stark reminder that danger still lurks behind the wheel. But as the confusion over the Firestone recall shows, it has become more difficult than ever to know if the car you're driving is safe.

Decades of innovations like air bags and improvements in auto design, combined with tough nationwide drunken-driving and seat-belt laws, have made it much safer to be on the road. Since 1979, the rate of highway traffic deaths has dropped by 50% from 3.2 to 1.6 per 100 million miles traveled. Despite this progress, more than 40,000 people die in auto accidents each year, and motor vehicle crashes are the leading cause of death among Americans under 35.

Yet cars are considered so reliable today that few people pay attention to what matters most on the road--the tires, brakes, air bags and seat belts. I was startled when two friends who own sedans said they never checked the tire pressure on their cars and weren't even sure where to find the pressure number. "Modern cars are so trouble-free that people have forgotten that vehicles need maintenance," says David Van Sickle, consumer and auto information director for the American Automobile Association. "Failure to check tire pressure and do other maintenance can have serious safety consequences."

Some cars are safer than others, of course. So, in the second part of this article, I've rated 41 vehicles that have scored the highest marks in government and insurance industry crash tests. And I've rated the three top sellers in each category for comparison. (Visit www.money.com for ratings of more than 100 models.) I'll also tell you how to keep abreast of the latest car recall news (see page 150) and give you my take on what it's like to own a Ford Explorer (see page 149). But our main focus is on what you can do to make your car as safe as possible--and keep it that way. Here are our safety tips to live by.

TIRES

Tires that don't have enough air can kill you. Underinflated tires flex too much and build up heat, which can lead to blowouts and tread separation, where the tread peels away from the body of the tire. Tread separation set off the Firestone tire recall and the company's dispute with Ford over who is responsible for the more than 100 deaths blamed on tire failures and Explorer rollovers.

As the companies have traded charges, drivers have been left with this question: How low is too low? The answer: Just four or five pounds per square inch (PSI) too low can be dangerous, tire safety experts say. With such a narrow margin for safety, it's important to check your air pressure at least monthly. But don't rely on the recommended pressure noted on the tires themselves. Instead, auto safety experts agree that you should follow your car maker's pressure recommendation. Car makers usually post it on a metal plaque on the driver's side door pillar or inside the glove compartment. It may also be in the owner's manual. On European brands, it may be inside the gas-cap cover.

I know that the appropriate pressure has been the main issue in the Firestone and Ford dispute. Firestone contends that the Explorer tires needed 30 pounds per square inch to perform effectively, while Ford recommended that the tires run at 26 PSI, which Firestone says is unsafe. Such a wide disparity is very unusual, and that's why in almost all cases I recommend you follow the automaker's tire pressure number. After all, I think the car maker is in the best position to know how your model will run best.

As for how you check your pressure, be wary of gauges at service stations, since their readings are often inaccurate and inconsistent. I'd recommend that you simply buy your own tire gauge at an auto-parts store (it should cost no more than $5 or so). Test the pressure of each of the tires when they are "cold," before the car has been driven. If you must add or subtract air, always retest the tires with the gauge afterward to get an accurate reading.

Heavy-load alert. Tires are often weakened by the stress of hauling gear or by towing a boat or trailer, especially if you are driving for long periods at speeds over 65 mph. This can heat up the tires and cause them to blow out.

You may think that it helps to let air out of your tires as a precaution during these situations. But, in fact, the opposite is true. To make sure your tires hold up under heavy loads, you may actually need to add an additional five pounds per square inch to each tire, says John Rastetter, director of tire information for Tirerack.com, an online tire seller. Consult your owner's manual for the heavy-load pressure recommendation.

Danger signs. If when driving at highway speeds you hear a muffled thumping noise or feel a shimmy in your steering wheel, it may be a sign of trouble. The noise may indicate tire tread problems that require immediate attention. The shimmy may mean your wheels are out of alignment, which can cause tires to wear prematurely.

Get a jump on tire problems by checking their condition every six months. Stick a penny into the tread. If the tread does not reach the top of Lincoln's head, you need new tires. Keep in mind that most tires usually last 40,000 miles, and it's prudent to have a mechanic check your alignment every 5,000 to 7,000 miles.

Ratings count. It's not just cars that are rated for safety. In addition to doing extensive crash tests on all models, the government rates all tires that are on the market. The ratings are generally noted on the side of a tire--A is the best, C is lowest--and you can also check the website of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, or NHTSA (www.nhtsa.gov/cars/testing/tirerate). If you drive long periods at high speeds or with heavy loads, you should have tires rated B or better for resistance to heat. For instance, the Firestone Wilderness AT, one of the sport utility tires involved in the recall, gets only a C rating for heat resistance. Competitor Goodyear Wrangler gets a B and costs no more (about $100 per tire, installed).

BRAKES

It used to be that brakes needed to be replaced when they squealed. It's not that simple anymore. Many cars have anti-lock braking systems (ABS) equipped with sophisticated sensors that monitor the rotational speed of the wheels to help you gain better control over braking. Better yet, many cars with ABS brakes automatically check them out for you with computerized diagnostics as soon as you start the car. That's why it's so important to watch the brakes' dashboard warning light. If the light goes out after about two seconds, the system is working properly. If the light stays on, it's a sign of potential trouble that requires a trip to the mechanic. But don't let all that technology fool you. There's plenty of risk even with high-tech brakes--parts still wear out unexpectedly.

How to test your stopping power. Every six months or so, you should apply this simple brake test. Find an empty parking lot or quiet road and accelerate to 50 mph; then hit the brakes hard. If the brakes are in good shape, you should stop within 100 feet, says Bud Stanley, partner in Advanced Driver Training in Nashua, N.H., which teaches accident-avoidance skills.

Remember that if you have traditional brakes without an automatic anti-lock assist, you'll need to pump the pedal to keep the wheels from locking. With anti-lock brakes, hit and hold the brakes even if you feel a pulsating in the pedal.

If your car has trouble passing this test, it means you won't be able to stop on a dime in an accident and you may have trouble stopping your car fast enough in rough weather. Time to bring it in for service.

Listen up. Even if you can stop on a dime, unseemly noises warrant a service visit. If you hear a squeal when you hit disk brakes or a grinding noise with drum brakes as you're doing this test, it means that, at a minimum, the shoes in drum brakes or the pads in disk brakes need replacement. If the car pulls to the right or left when you brake, that's also a trouble sign. A thorough brake overhaul--which you probably need every 30,000 miles in any event--should cost from $150 to $300, depending on your vehicle. I'd recommend using only a mechanic or dealership service department certified by the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). For certification, the individual mechanics have to pass tests on specific repairs every five years. Most certified shops will display an ASE sign. Or you can check for certified shops in your area at the ASE website, www.asecert.org.

AIR BAGS

They're one of the biggest lifesavers to come along in decades. Air bags have been required in all vehicles since the 1990 model-year and have saved nearly 5,000 lives since then, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. That's a decidedly good thing. But air bags have also been linked to more than 160 deaths over the past 10 years, which means it's prudent to maintain this safety device and to learn how to use it properly.

Maintenance. When it comes to maintenance, there is little that car owners themselves can do to air bags. But that shouldn't breed complacency. Every time you start the car it runs an automatic diagnostic test of the safety device. The results of that test will show on your dashboard's air-bag light, which usually looks like an expanded air bag or reads SRS for Supplemental Restraint System. If the light stays on, it's signaling a problem and the air bag should, of course, be checked immediately. But here's my advice: Go to a dealership, not an independent mechanic. Dealers will have the electronic diagnostic equipment that should be able to identify the problem in the air-bag system.

If you do need to replace the air bag--as you would after an accident or any time it deploys--make sure you ask for a new bag and get proof that it's authentic. There's a vigorous trade in used and black-market air bags. Tell your car dealer you expect to see the invoice from the manufacturer. It should show recent shipment from a leading manufacturer such as Breed Technologies or TRW Corp. And check that the serial number on the invoice matches the one on your new air bag. One final note: If you have an air-bag-equipped car that's more than 10 years old, I'd recommend bringing it in for a test even if the car's system shows no signs of trouble. Though it should still be functioning properly, extra caution never hurts.

Sit right. We all know air bags are dangerous if you sit too close to them. That's been especially true for children and smaller adults, who account for many of the air-bag-related deaths. But the safety devices can be dangerous for everyone.

How close is too close? According to NHTSA, drivers should be at least 10 inches from the front of the air bag. Anything closer puts you in danger of being hurt by the force of the air bag should it inflate. If your car has an adjustable steering wheel, tilt it as far down as is comfortable, so it's pointing the bag at your chest instead of your head. NHTSA's website actually has a detailed diagram of the proper way to sit. Check www.nhtsa.gov.

SEAT BELTS AND CHILD SEATS

Three out of five people killed in traffic accidents would have lived had they been wearing their seat belts, according to estimates by federal safety regulators. But few of us pay much attention to belts. We assume that they are in good condition and functioning properly. Yet that isn't always the case. So how can you tell if your seat belts are up to the job?

The fit test. The belts should unreel smoothly when you pull them, then retract snugly around you. The best belts, in recent-model cars, have so-called pre-tensioners that make the belt retract slightly to hold you in place during an accident.

The visual test. On older cars, look to see if belts are frayed or torn, especially at the edges, where they get the most use. If your belts don't fit well, check the "retractor"--the spool-like device that tightens the belt--near the floor. "In a family car, you may find crayons, McDonald's wrappers or anything else caught in the retractor," says the AAA's Van Sickle.

Post-accident vigilance. An accident can seriously weaken belts. Look at any belt that was in use during the accident for signs of "tear strips," a patch of torn threads down near the retractor.

If your seat belts fail these simple tests, go to a dealership or a mechanic who is certified for such work. A replacement should cost $150 or less.

Child seats. When it comes to child-safety seats, the best news to come along is the addition of child-seat anchors in cars. The anchors bolt in the seat and make it far more secure than using seat belts. This feature is standard in the 2001 Chrysler minivan and will be required in all cars starting with the 2003 models.

In the meantime, there's a lot you can do to make sure that the seats are functioning properly and safely secure your child.

--When placing your child in the seat, cinch the belt as tightly as possible so that the seat cannot move more than one inch to the front or side. Position the clips on the belt harness at the level of the child's armpits.

--Check at least once a year for cracks or spiderwebbing in the fiberglass that could mean you need a replacement.

--Get the right seat. If you buy a convertible seat in the $50-to-$70 range, you can first install it in a rear-facing position for babies weighing under 20 pounds in order to keep your child out of danger. But when the child grows, you can switch to a front-facing position. And remember that once your child is over 41 pounds, she'll need a separate booster seat that works with regular adult seat belts.

WITH ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY STEPHANIE D. SMITH