(FORTUNE Magazine) – My friends who dabble in the black art of marketing have a word they reserve for those they really want to insult: ASPIRATIONAL. The new Park Hyatt, steps from the Place Vendome, is just that. I appreciate the attempt to do something modern in a city where hotels revel in their old age, but I wasn't the only guest knocking on the marble walls, marveling at their hollowness. As for the bronze statues everywhere --gaunt figures stretching their arms to the sky--well, it's a cheap metaphor, but I'll take it: This hotel is REACHING. Aspirational. And for $625 a night, I expect the hotel to achieve a respectable level of service. I could perhaps forgive the maid for leaving the door ajar after turndown. But the next day she removed the unopened bottle of wine that management had graciously placed in the room before my arrival. C'est tout dire.