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Is Abercrombie growing up?
The retailer's new concept could show a marked departure from its core teen-inspired clothes.
August 9, 2004: 1:46 PM EDT
By Parija Bhatnagar, CNN/Money staff writer

NEW YORK (CNN/Money) - It's almost uncharacteristic for Abercrombie & Fitch, better-known for courting controversy over its risque advertising featuring skimpily-clad young models, to be so hush-hush about a new idea in the works.

Actually, the New Albany, Ohio-based retailer may be just days away from debuting what industry watchers speculate will be a very different turn for the teen apparel seller.

The company has been extremely tight-lipped about the project.

However, some analysts, citing sources close to the matter, say Abercrombie's new retail concept is a more mature line that will cater to young professionals or to consumers on the hunt for their first job out of school.

"The theory has been to extend the brand to the next age segment," Marshal Cohen, retail analyst with NPD Group. "More and more 35 to 40 year-olds are dressing like they're 25. The other favorable trait of this demographic is that it tends to stay loyal to a brand compared to the fickleness of teen consumers."

Abercrombie declined to comment on the story.

But in an earlier interview with CNN/Money in May, Abercrombie spokesman Tom Lennox said the retailer was developing a new "lifestyle" brand that it expected to debut in August through a limited number of test stores.

If that's the case, it would also extend Abercrombie's retail portfolio, which currently consists of a total of 727 stores, including its namesake stores, 171 Abercrombie Kids stores and 197 Hollister stores around the country.

Said Marshal, "With the older consumer, it's not so much about aspiration but about the image. Abercrombie might have to tone down the look but you can still expect it to be cutting edge and trendy. After all, Abercrombie's brand image is based on differentiation and an avant garde approach that's enabled it to sell at higher prices."

Eric Beder, senior equity analyst with JB Hanauer & Co., also thinks Abercrombie could benefit from going after the slightly older shopper.

"Unlike the teen specialty arena, this is not a very saturated segment of the overall apparel market," said Beder. "This is a customer that's looking for quality and the latest fashion. There's not a lot of retailers offering both things to more mature shoppers. Abercrombie could take advantage of this."

Some observers, like J.P. Morgan analyst Brian Tunick, think the concept could compete with chains like J. Crew and Gap Inc. (GPS: Research, Estimates)'s Banana Republic.

"We believe it will have similar price points and target the same demographic as Banana Republic and J. Crew," said Tunick.

Abercrombie could spill the beans as early as Tuesday when it reports quarterly earnings.

While its "big secret" has kept fashion followers guessing lately, investors are somewhat confounded by the company's declining comparable sales numbers on the one hand, and rising revenue on the other.

In July, Abercrombie posted sales at its stores open at least a year down 9 percent on top of a 5 percent comparable sales decline in June. But year-over-year revenue rose 8 percent last month, and was up 13 percent in June.

The company also said it expects second-quarter earnings to come in above Wall Street's expectations of a profit of 43 cents a share, up from 35 cents a share a year ago.

Nevertheless, investors punished the stock on the weak sales number, sending it down sharply on the news last week. Year-to-date, shares of Abercrombie are up 32 percent.

Said Howard Tubin, retail analyst with Cathay Financial, "The divergent numbers have to do with the opening of new stores, which affect total revenue," said Tubin. "Abercrombie is still seeing good square footage growth, which is boosting total revenue. But sales at its older stores have slowed down. That's a concern to investors."  Top of page




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Most stock quote data provided by BATS. Market indices are shown in real time, except for the DJIA, which is delayed by two minutes. All times are ET. Disclaimer. Morningstar: © 2018 Morningstar, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Factset: FactSet Research Systems Inc. 2018. All rights reserved. Chicago Mercantile Association: Certain market data is the property of Chicago Mercantile Exchange Inc. and its licensors. All rights reserved. Dow Jones: The Dow Jones branded indices are proprietary to and are calculated, distributed and marketed by DJI Opco, a subsidiary of S&P Dow Jones Indices LLC and have been licensed for use to S&P Opco, LLC and CNN. Standard & Poor's and S&P are registered trademarks of Standard & Poor's Financial Services LLC and Dow Jones is a registered trademark of Dow Jones Trademark Holdings LLC. All content of the Dow Jones branded indices © S&P Dow Jones Indices LLC 2018 and/or its affiliates.