(FORTUNE Magazine) – There is no fountain of youth, Ponce de Leon. It was only a matter of time before the Food and Drug Administration ordered cosmetics companies to change labels claiming that their potions and lotions reversed the effects of aging. Alas, we all grow old -- even the businesses that promise eternal youth. As ; Estee Lauder moved to comply with the FDA request, Chief Executive Leonard Lauder, 55, began rejuvenating the company's image, the first major marketing change in 15 years. Lauder, a family company begun by Leonard's mother, the legendary Estee, 80ish, got its start in 1953 with Youth-Dew, a fragrant bath oil. The image changed little over the succeeding years. That was no problem as long as business was good. But in the past two years, European sales, about half of an estimated $1 billion in annual revenues, ''started to lose momentum,'' admits Leonard. ''I found us not staying as up-to-date.'' The timeless look started to remind people of the picture of Dorian Gray. Gone from the advertising, therefore, are the cool but removed 1950ish Lauder women. The new Estee Lauder icon will be Czechoslovakian-born model Paulina Porizkova, 23, who projects an internationally appealing image that is, in Leonard's words, ''frankly sexier.'' Sex, Ponce de Leon. Even illusions can grow old. But sex, sex always sells.