(FORTUNE Magazine) – Power these days is demonstrated best through restraint, so you can forget about inhaling the bacon and eggs at your breakfast of champions. Instead, order black coffee and a plain bagel, and see whether the person sitting across the table blinks.

--Ronald B. Lieber

Food Decor Service Cost BEVERLY HILLS The Belvedere 26 28 26 $49 9882 Little Santa Monica Blvd. 310-788-2306

LONDON Savoy River Room 22 24 22 47[pounds] The Strand, WC2 0171-836-4343

NEW ORLEANS Brennan's 23 25 24 $40 417 Royal St. 504-525-9711

NEW YORK CITY Fiftyseven, Fiftyseven 24 26 24 $51 57 E. 57th St. 212-758-5757

PALO ALTO Il Fornaio 20 21 18 $28 520 Cowper St. 415-853-3888

WASHINGTON, D.C. Lafayette 26 29 27 $46 800 16th St. NW 202-683-2570

0-9 poor to fair 10-19 good to very good 20-25 very good to excellent 26-30 extraordinary to perfection

Cost reflects the estimated price of a dinner with one drink and tip.

ZAGAT SURVEY