(FORTUNE Magazine) – In 1995, about one in five people who went out to eat ordered a hamburger. Even upscale restaurants are bringing back the burger, making it out of tuna or gussying it up with homemade ketchup. So skip the nouvelle cuisine once in a while.

--Ronald B. Lieber

Food Decor Service Cost ASPEN Restaurant at the Little Nell 27 26 27 $40 675 E. Durant 970-920-6330

BEVERLY HILLS The Grill 25 22 23 $37 9560 Dayton Way 310-276-0615

CHICAGO Whitehall Place 20 21 20 $36 105 E. Delaware Place 312-573-6300

DALLAS Star Canyon 27 28 25 $37 3102 Oak Lawn Ave. 214-520-7827

NEW YORK CITY "21" Club 20 22 21 $53 21 W. 52nd St. 212-582-7200

SAN FRANCISCO Stars 23 23 21 $43 150 Redwood Alley 415-861-7827

0-9 poor to fair 10-19 good to very good 20-25 very good to excellent 26-30 extraordinary to perfection

Cost reflects the estimated price of a dinner with one drink and tip.

ZAGAT SURVEY