SOFT-SHELL CRABS
By RONALD B. LIEBER

(FORTUNE Magazine) – For lazy crustacean lovers, now's the time to head to the local fishmonger. This month soft-shell crabs hit the shores for their annual four- to five-month run in restaurants like Zagat's picks below, which means no cracking is necessary to get at their sweet, delicate meat. Not every place has them every day, so be sure to call ahead.

--Ronald B. Lieber

Food Decor Service Cost BALTIMORE Jimmy's Famous Seafood 6526 Holabird Ave. 410-633-4040 20 10 17 $22

BOSTON Legal Sea Foods Ten locations in greater Boston 22 15 18 $26

CHICAGO Yoshi's Cafe 3257 N. Halsted St. 773-248-6160 24 19 23 $37

MIAMI The Fish Market 1601 Biscayne Blvd. 305-374-4399 23 22 23 $32

NEW ORLEANS Uglesich's Restaurant 1238 Baronne St. 504-523-8571 26 11 15 $13

WASHINGTON, D.C. Pesce 2016 P St. NW 202-466-3474 25 15 19 $30

0-9 poor to fair 10-19 good to very good 20-25 very good to excellent 26-30 extraordinary to perfection

Cost reflects the estimated price of a dinner with one drink and tip.

ZAGAT SURVEY