(FORTUNE Magazine) – FORTUNE gave $100 to Brandon Carr, maitre d' and wine buyer at Four Square, in Durham, N.C., to see what he'd buy.

Domaine Mittnacht-Klack, Clos St.-Urlich, Riesling, Alsace, 1997; $14.99. Not a sweet Riesling, fairly high in acidity. It goes well with shrimp, lobster, and scallops.

Domaine Daulny, Sancerre, Loire Valley, 1998; $11.25. It has a grassy quality on the nose and stands up well to chevre. (We're lucky to have a farm almost in our backyard that produces good goat cheese.)

Martin Schaetzel, Cuvee Reserve, Tokay-Pinot Gris, Alsace, 1997; $15.59. Alsace wines tend to be dry, but this has some residual sugar. For the end of the meal.

Jaffurs, Stolpman Family Vineyard, Grenache, Santa Barbara County, 1996; $18.99. The fullest-body wine I bought. It has a nice spicy edge.

Chehalem, Rion Reserve, Pinot Noir, Ridgecrest Vineyard, Newberg, Ore., 1996; $38.59. I realized too late that I bought one of the same wines as the last sommelier. I can't say enough about Chehalem. If you see the name on a bottle, pick it up.