(FORTUNE Magazine) – The National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia is best known for its fictional spokesman, Juan Valdez--you know, the guy with the poncho and mule. The name may evoke instant brew like Folgers, but the association is trying to change that by opening a series of Juan Valdez Café coffee shops across the country.

At the rain-drenched opening of the New York City flagship in late September, a swarm of cosmopolitan guests surrounded a man dressed as Valdez, as well as a line of nervous-looking Colombian farmers. The cafés (there's also one in Washington, D.C.) will serve regular espresso drinks as well as traditional Colombian beverages like nevado arequipe (iced coffee with dulce de leche) and traditional pastries.

According to Colombian Coffee Federation president Juan Estéban Orduz, the goal is to open 300 stores worldwide in the next five years. Over half a million Colombian coffee growers own stakes in the cafés, and all retail profits will go back to them, helping to improve their standard of living. Sure makes you feel a bit less guilty about that calorie-packed dulce de leche. -- Kate Bonamici