MILWAUKEE (Money Magazine) -
When I first rolled into Milwaukee on a winter evening, I had nothing to fuel my wandering but the Laverne & Shirley theme song. Hardly romantic. Yet, in the wanderer's ultimate payoff, I fell in love. Unexpectedly. With Milwaukee.
Just an hour north of Chicago on Lake Michigan, Milwaukee exudes a kind of quaint sophistication that surprises the uninitiated. A stroll through stately tree-lined streets and metro buzz yields dozens of urban gems. It's a city for people who love cities.
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The lake is pure delight: Swim, sail, picnic or bundle up for a winter walk along its shore. Or take in the Milwaukee Art Museum. A national treasure, its new addition rivals the Sydney Opera House in fluid grace. Stroll Brady Street, the city's eclectic, lovingly restored arts district. And amble along the newly developed RiverWalk. For accommodations, consider the Pfister Hotel, an affordable four-star Victorian palace. And, yes, the beer: The old Pabst and Schlitz breweries are now just historical relics, but Miller still brews Milwaukee (and offers tours).
Chetek, Wisconsin
Why: A jug of wine, a loaf of bread and thou -- the Canoe Bay Inn offers the quietness of nature, fine dining and luxurious cabins in the woods.
What you have to do: Enjoy a glass of wine on your private deck before dining at the inn's top-rated Relais & Chateaux restaurant.
Where to stay: Canoe Bay ($400; 715-924-4594), where most cottages come with a view of Lake Wahdoon and a fireplace
Getting there: A two-hour drive from Minneapolis; six from Chicago
Newton, Iowa
Why: Midwestern hospitality, gourmet food and the famous covered bridges of Madison County (admit it, the book made you cry).
What you have to do: Drive about an hour from Newton through rolling hills to find those covered bridges.
Where to stay: LaCorsette Maison Inn ($100; 641-792-6833), a beautifully preserved 1909 Mission-style mansion that is on the National Register of Historic Places. Owner Kay Owen is a well-regarded chef with a French flair.
Getting there: Three hours from Omaha; just outside Des Moines
Saugatuck, Michigan
Why: On the shore of Lake Michigan, Saugatuck is the Cape Cod of the Midwest. Its Oval Beach is regarded as one of the country's best.
What you have to do: A dune buggy ride in Saugatuck Dunes State Park (where the sand dunes reach 350 feet high); blueberry picking (if you're there in July or August); and a picnic on the beach
Where to stay: The Wickwood Inn ($250; 800-385-1174), a bed and breakfast owned by Julee Rosso of The Silver Palate Cookbook fame and her husband Bill Miller. It's a safe bet that breakfast will be tasty.
Getting there: 2 hours from Chicago and Detroit
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