(FORTUNE Small Business) – The biggest dilemma you'll face as a visitor to Charleston is where to begin. The jewel of South Carolina's low country is crisscrossed with historic streets. Find King Street, and you've discovered a bona fide American high street, the heart of Charleston for more than 200 years. Browse in restored shops for antiques, or stop by M. Dumas & Sons, purveyors of all manner of men's wear (including camouflage gear) since 1919. At its southern tip, King Street meanders by pre-Revolutionary homes. Or try the self-guided Gateway walk, four blocks that wind through churchyards and gardens and past many of the city's historic gates.

--Julie Rose

STAY

--CHARLESTON PLACE HOTEL: In the middle of the historic district, 12 years old and luxurious, with turn-of-the-century furniture, rooftop tennis court, high tea, and European spa. Rates from $399. (800-611-5545)

--MILLS HOUSE HOTEL: A reproduction of antebellum grace. A redo of the 1850's hotel that once occupied this spot, right down to the balcony strode by Robert E. Lee. Near the antiques district. Rates from $99. (800-874-9600)

--MEETING STREET INN: In this smaller, 56-room inn, new wings join to form a tranquil courtyard. Four-poster beds and Oriental rugs warm the rooms. Rates from $99. (800-842-8022)

EAT

--LOUIS'S: Award-winning chef Louis Osteen's new South menu. Fab crab cakes ($12), duck breast with espresso infusion ($19), free-range grilled veal chop with wild-mushroom bread pudding ($32). (843-853-2550)

--HANK'S SEAFOOD: Have a hankering for grouper? Offerings range from traditional Charleston She-Crab soup with roe and sherry ($5.50) to Asian-seared tuna ($20). (843-723-3474)

--PENINSULA GRILL: Velvet walls and cypress molding mark a perfect setting for champagne by the glass. Don't miss the bourbon-grilled shrimp and lobster-basil hushpuppies ($23). (843-723-0700)