(FORTUNE Small Business) – Once famous for its incandescent Strip and the ladies who worked it, Las Vegas has tried to remake its image by trading vices for family values. Good news, though, for fans of 24/7 gambling and gourmet meals: None of the bargain buffets or theme-park-like attractions have transformed Sin City into the family fun place it hoped to become during the mid-1990s. But the town's latest makeover does seem to be working. Once-cheesy hotels are being rebuilt as chic resorts, $7.95 all-you-can-eats have given way to pricey tasting menus, and paintings by actual Impressionist masters have replaced the Elvises at some hotels.

--TARA WEINGARTEN

Stay

Bellagio: Check out the glass-roofed conservatory, the dancing fountains, and the dozen gourmet restaurants. Rooms start at $179. (888-987-6667)

Aladdin: Rebuilt in neo-Ali Baba style; rooms are outfitted with flat-screen PCs and high-speed Net access. Don't want to work? How about a little shopping at Desert Passage, a high-end mall connected to the hotel? Rates start at $139. (877-333-9474)

The Venetian: Ten bucks buys you a gondola ride down a re-created Venetian canal. At 750 square feet, rooms are among the largest in town. Bonus: The Guggenheim will be opening two museums on-site. Rooms are $199 and up. (888-283-6423)

Eat

Picasso: At the Bellagio, where you can feast your eyes on a dozen Picasso paintings and the $85 five-course tasting menu. Don't miss the roasted scallops with potatoes mousseline and jus de veau. (702-693-7111)

Renoir: It's housed at the Mirage hotel, and the decor pays homage to the French Impressionists. Try the braised short ribs with red wine, shallots, and horseradish potato gratin. Main dishes are $25 and up. (800-627-6667)

Canaletto: This trattoria, situated along The Venetian hotel's faux canal, specializes in authentic delicacies such as salt cod from Apulia and tuna caught in the waters off Sicily. Entrees are $13 and up. (702-733-0070)