(FORTUNE Small Business) – Nokia 9290 Communicator $799 www.nokia.com Two-in-one may work for Blow Pops and shampoo-conditioners, but no one has quite nailed it for mobile communications. The 9290, a cellphone that's also a wireless PDA when you open it, is the latest attempt. The PDA features an impressive full-color display and a good-sized keyboard. If only it were easy to handle. The function keys, which you need to interact with all the programs, are located next to the screen, so you need one hand to use those and one hand to type. Which leaves your feet to actually hold the device. It has a solid suite of basic business applications, including a contact manager, word processor, and spreadsheet that are compatible with desktop Microsoft Office apps. The 9290 also takes advantage of its wireless capabilities with messaging, e-mail, faxing, and a full Web browser. Don't rely on that too heavily, though: Surfing is more like playing in the sand because it's not equipped for use with emerging high-speed wireless networks. The phone works well, with clear sound and easy operation. Keep an eye out for similar products from the likes of Samsung and Ericsson. Somebody will get this right.

--RYAN SHAPIRO